I'm going to call it "squish" to be unambiguous. "Z offset" and "z height" can be conflated with other concepts.
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⚠️ This section assumes that you have already done a rough 📄Z offset calibration. -
⚠️ This section also assumes that you have a consistent first layer squish, both across the entire build surface and between prints.⚠️ See the 📄First Layer / Squish Consistency Issues article, even if you are not having any issues. There is some important information in there that everyone should know, particularly about thermal drift.
1) Set your first layer height to 0.25 or greater (in my opinion).
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Thicker first layer heights are less sensitive and easier to maintain, especially on larger printers where first layer consistency can be a challenge.
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Aside from that, this is personal preference.
2) Scatter square patches around your bed in your slicer.
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See the 📄test_prints folder.
- Choose a patch that matches your first layer height.
(First_Layer_Patch-0.25mm.stl
if you chose to follow step 1)
- Choose a patch that matches your first layer height.
3) Set your first layer 📄line width to 120% or greater.
4) Start the print. While it is printing, 📄live adjust z.
- This can be done via g-codes/macros, LCD, or via web. I find it easiest to sit in front of the printer and fine-tune with the LCD.
In these examples, the third square is closest.
There are real-life print examples in the next section.
Note: When I refer to "gaps", I mean where you can see between/through the extrusion lines.
If you can see any light (excluding pinholes at the perimeter), or the next layer on real prints, then you need more squish.
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Top Surface
- You don't want too many ridges/hairs on top.
- It's normal to have a little bit of this near the corners, or in small print areas.
- You shouldn't see any gaps* between the lines.
- It's fine to have some very small pinholes where the infill meets the perimeters.
- NOTE: Upon review, somewhere between square 3 and 4 is closer to ideal.
- You don't want too many ridges/hairs on top.
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Bottom Surface
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- Top Surface
- Bottom Surface
5) Once you are happy with your squish, cancel the print and then save your new offset with one of the below methods:
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Dedicated Z Endstop:
(With dedicated Z endstops. Stock V0/V2/Trident are set up this way)- Enter
Z_OFFSET_APPLY_ENDSTOP
*- This will apply your new offset to your stepper_z's
position_endstop
.
- This will apply your new offset to your stepper_z's
- Enter
SAVE_CONFIG
.
- Enter
-
Virtual Z Endstop:
(When using the probe as the Z endstop. Stock Switchwire and Legacy are set up this way)- Enter
Z_OFFSET_APPLY_PROBE
*- This will apply your new offset to your probe's
z_offset
.
- This will apply your new offset to your probe's
- Enter
SAVE_CONFIG
.
- Enter
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Klicky Auto Z Calibration:
(This is a mod, it uses Klicky AND nozzle endstop to automatically baby step before each print. See 📄here for more information.)- Manually adjust your
switch_offset
based on how much extra you had to baby step.- Higher value = more squish
- Lower value = less squish
- If your value is straying too far from your switch's theoretical
switch_offset
(usually 0.5), there may be another issue at play. Values of 0.4-0.6 are fairly normal (for the standard Omron switches).
- Manually adjust your
* Requires a semi-recent version of Klipper.
You should still clearly be able to see the lines. If it's completely smooth, your squish is too much. If you see gaps between the lines, you need more squish.
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There are gaps between the lines (you can see through to the next layer):
- If you have a gappy second layer (or first few layers), it may indicate that you need a little more squish.
- There are other possible causes for this issue (like not heat soaking for long enough, or flow dropoff)
- This cube needs just a tiny bit more squish.
You can see very slight gapping / shadows between the perimeters and some areas of the infill. The corners are also starting to pull away a bit. - Better!
- If you have a gappy second layer (or first few layers), it may indicate that you need a little more squish.